I have been practising and made 2 orchids for my friends and they worked out
ok. I want to make more but the time seems to run out these days.
I have a question how do you mix dark green for the leaves, I tried and it
doesn't turn out right.
Thank you again.
Nice to hear that you are practising.
Practice mixing colours on white paper, before mixing it into the clay, so you can get an
idea of how much you need to put in.
To get a proper dark green, I use Winton 37 and Georgia 135. Add a tiny bit of 135 each time
to get a dark green, then leave it over night to see the result. You may need to add more
Winton 37 too.
Just wish to ask you about the rolling of the clay through the pasta maker- do you roll the clay between plastic sheets or use the clay directly into the pasta maker without the plastic sheets?
What do you do usually when you roll the clay? I remember you mentioning that a little Vaseline be smeared on the plastic sheets- is that before the clay is rolled flat or afterwards? I have tried both methods but have to manually push the clay bulk through setting 1 to flatten then through setting 4 to thin it out. It is not always successful.
Is there an easier method to roll it through the machine?
Also your clay at the workshop is much softer and malleable than when I've kneaded it at home- what is the secret to keeping it soft after colour has been added, apart from wrapping the rolled clay in plastic to prevent drying out?
Would appreciate your comments to the above enquiries.
Thanks very much.
The clay in the workshop is softer because I add more water to it so it doesn’t quickly dry and allows more time for the student to work.
You roll the clay in between the plastic sheets.
After you have opened the plastic sheet, that’s when you put the clay near the end (about 2inches) and roll it out holding the end while rolling.
Add some water after you have finished kneading it and wrapping it up in many layers of plastic.
P.S. Watch the DVD incase you get stuck.
I went to one of your workshop before and I just wonder how I can reproduce the same green colour for the orchid stems and leaves? I have used oil colour for it but is there a better choice?
Will you be able to advise me on the actual brand and code number for the
green you use?
I would usually use Winton 37 mixed with Winton 33, but if you need it darker, mix it with Georgian 135.
Make sure you mix it bit by bit and leave a tiny bit to dry over night to find out your
result, and if your not, mix in more colour.
Hope this helps.
1.What is the difference between grade A and grade B clay?
2.Which colours can be used?
3.If I use water colours can I wash them?
4.Can we wash these flowers once they are dry?
5.What is the glue used to stick petals?
Please see below the answers to your questions:
1. Grade A Pat-a-Clay is a better quality clay; it is stronger and Grade B Pat-a-Clay is
mainly used for miniature flowers, because it doesn't need to be as strong to hold up
2.Any colour of oil paint can be used, it depends on which colours you buy and mix in with
3.If you use water colours, the colour won't come out as nice as oil paints, but you can
NOT wash them if you use water colours.
4.You can NOT wash the fowers once they are dry, but we suggest you use a soft brush to
brush off the dust.
5.We use super glue to attach the petals together for the flowers and leaves; as well as
attaching them to the stem.
We don't supply any colour tubes, and we only use oil paints. Just purchase any colour
of oil paint you want from a local art and craft store.