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Pat-a-Clay - The modeling clay , Air Dry Clay.

Clay craft smooth and pliable Great for making clay flowers and other craft projects

 Comes in basic Natural Colours ,dries with normal exposure to air after approximately 24 hours

(drying time may vary depending on thickness of clay).

Clay Craft-Pat-a-Clay is an air-dry modeling clay that requires no baking. It is the best to make delicate objects like flowers and plant. Pat-a-Clay is lightweight and dries to a firm consistency within 24 hours. Drying time may vary depending on thickness of clay.
Pat-a-Clay is easy to work with. Once dried, Pat-a-Clay remains flexible yet firm and is extremely lightweight. Lasts permanently and will not mildew.

~Directions for using: Pat-a-Clay perfect for making flexible push moulds and can be shaped, rolled, Twisted, curved, glued or sculpted and other craft projects. For a smooth finish, use a small amount of water on clay surface.

~You can create colors you need by mixing the clay with artic oil colors paints or water colors or acrylic paints,.

~After the clay has dried, it can be painted with either oil paints, water colors or acrylic paints.

~When using, knead clay well till soft (can add small amounts water as you knead).

Clay Tips

 ·Please Wash your hands.

·Apply a small amount of Vaseline or hand cram to clean hands before you start working with the Pat-a-Clay. This will make it easier to work with.

·When kneading Pat-a-Clay remember to use the stretching motion, using only your fingers and thumbs. Stretching it out and putting it together again, this method helps to disperse all the ingredients evenly.

·Keep kneading until soft and pliable. Failing to do so can have the tendency to dry out and crack around the edges

·Always remember to put any unused Pat-a-Clay in plastic wrap during your project.

·If your fingers get tired you can use an alternative method by kneading Pat-a-Clay “in between plastic wrap.  You can use this method from the very start or during the process.

·If Pat-a-Clay is dry or tough during the kneading process, soften it by adding of clean water while kneading.

·Do not add water in large amounts, as this makes the Pat-a-Clay difficult to work with, and it will take longer to dry.

·Store Pat-a-Clay in plastic wrap or bag in an airtight container. After you have opened a package keep the unused portion in plastic wrap and an air tight bag. If it should happen to dry out slightly while you're working or it's in the bag, simply knead in a few drops of water to restore its pliability.

·Mix Color - When mixing in colour, add a small amount at a time and mix it well into the clay. Also you can mix two colours at a time to get the shade of colour you need.

·Rolling it out - Apply a little Vaseline between  the plastic sheet. Put the Pat-a-Clay near the end of the plastic sheet (about 2"). Fold the other end of the plastic over to cover the Pat-a-Clay. Then use a rolling pin or pasta marker to roll out to the desired thickness.

· Covering Objects - To cover or embellish an object with Pat-a-Clay, cover it with a small amount of craft glue or PVA glue before applying the Pat-a-Clay. Pat-a-Clay sticks well to most surfaces.

·Using molds - Cover the mold with small amount of Vaseline and then press in the Pat-a-Clay

· Drying Pat-a-Clay - Small items will generally dry in a day or so depending on room temperature and humidity. Larger projects may take a few days to completely dry. If you're in a hurry, you may put your unpainted projects next to the Heater for 10 minutes or until dry.

· Painting - Once Pat-a-Clay is dried, it can be painted with any type of paint. (Patty uses oil colour to paint on the petal )

·Clay be come to hard -Cover clay with wet towel when clay be come to hard. Leave over night or two then keep kneading until soft and pliable. Clay may stick on your finger keep kneading until clay mix to gathers. And then wash your hands then apply a small amount of Vaseline before you start working again.

- You can also cover the clay in a plastic bag, then place the bag in hot water for 10-20mins. After, bring out the bag and the clay then continuously kneading until soft and pliable.

FAQS

Hi Patty

Thanks Patty I have received it already.

I have been practising and made 2 orchids for my friends and they worked out
ok. I want to make more but the time seems to run out these days.

I have a question how do you mix dark green for the leaves, I tried and it
doesn't turn out right.

Thank you again.

Gabriele

Dear Gabriele,
Nice to hear that you are practising.
Practice mixing colours on white paper, before mixing it into the clay, so you can get an
idea of how much you need to put in.
To get a proper dark green, I use Winton 37 and Georgia 135. Add a tiny bit of 135 each time
to get a dark green, then leave it over night to see the result. You may need to add more
Winton 37 too.
Patty
 

Hi Patty,

Just wish to ask you about the rolling of the clay through the pasta maker- do you roll the clay between plastic sheets or use the clay directly into the pasta maker without the plastic sheets?

What do you do usually when you roll the clay? I remember you mentioning that a little Vaseline be smeared on the plastic sheets- is that before the clay is rolled flat or afterwards? I have tried both methods but have to manually push the clay bulk through setting 1 to flatten then through setting 4 to thin it out. It is not always successful.

Is there an easier method to roll it through the machine?

Also your clay at the workshop is much softer and malleable than when I've kneaded it at home- what is the secret to keeping it soft after colour has been added, apart from wrapping the rolled clay in plastic to prevent drying out?

Would appreciate your comments to the above enquiries.

Thanks very much.

Regards,

Joy

Hi Joy,

The clay in the workshop is softer because I add more water to it so it doesn’t quickly dry and allows more time for the student to work.

You roll the clay in between the plastic sheets.

After you have opened the plastic sheet, that’s when you put the clay near the end (about 2inches) and roll it out holding the end while rolling.

Add some water after you have finished kneading it and wrapping it up in many layers of plastic.

P.S. Watch the DVD incase you get stuck.

 

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Hi Patty,
I went to one of your workshop before and I just wonder how I can reproduce the same green colour for the orchid stems and leaves?  I have used oil colour for it but is there a better choice?
Will you be able to advise me on the actual brand and code number for  the
green you use?
 Many thanks!
Lisa
 

Hi Lisa
I would usually use Winton 37 mixed with Winton 33, but if you need it darker, mix it with Georgian 135.
Make sure you mix it bit by bit and leave a tiny bit to dry over night to find out your
result, and if your not, mix in more colour.
Hope this helps.

Regards
Patty
 

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